While it’s there as a quaffing option, Champagne has always had that indulgent, opulent, special occasion connection for me. I was aware of its heritage and had a fair idea about the protection of the methode as well as the unique way it was made.
En route during my annual Italian road trip, our colleagues at Diageo kindly organised a visit to Domaine Pommery for me. The Satnav located the estate easily, just outside Reims. There was a proper whiff of affluence in the avenues that surrounded the grand entrances to Heisdeck, Laurent Perignon, Veuve Cliquot and Tattinger.
Through the gates and up the grand avenue we drove, parking was easy and in we went. We were greeted by Benedicte Lefevre, the European sales manager. Niamh (my daughter) was well impressed. We were given a quick overview of the history of the brand (it’s pronounced Pom-ree, was founded in 1867, and they have 20 million bottles stored in the caves below the domain – Holy fizzy biscuits!)
We were invited to descend a magnificent 130 step grand staircase into the caves below; many of these were carved out by the Romans and have been adapted for maturation and storage over the last two hundred years. There was an obvious musty smell but the 10 degree temperature was most pleasant. The scale is boggling. Shafts are named after scores of markets conquered in the 19th century, Manchester, Liverpool, Ulong Batoor, and St. Petersburg. There were bottles everywhere in all the classic sizes and various stages of readiness.
The tunnels were eerie but comfortable at the same time. Bottles were stacked scores high with only each other and the walls for support.
The rows went back for yards. I took these photos with a view to working out how many there were. Afterwards I noticed the helpful label. Prince Albert of Monaco has a private stash here, 36,000 bottles or so, and why not? As good a place to keep it as any I reckon.
They keep all the really old bottles here too. I really admired the sense of heritage and history, the pride of being the keeper of the methode champagnoise and its traditions. I expect that if Madame Pommery was as cute with her storage of cash as she was with her hoarding of the champagne, this may explain the reason for her business success. I have no doubt that this heritage and timeless quality will be still here in hundreds of years time.
Back up into the light we had a marvelous tasting of two of the marques; the Brut and the Rose. Fantastic. The fizz never tasted better to me. I will definitely think twice next time I see the glorious stuff being sprayed all over the pub’s ceiling.
